Thursday, March 28, 2019

Tree Things: A Walk in the Home Woods

Tree Things
A Walk in the Home Woods
March 2, 2019




Is this early spring or late winter?

In the Midwest it can be either - that undefinable time that switches between the two from one day to another, or one part of a day to another.

There was one thing I knew for sure: only the Harbinger-of-Spring would be in bloom (Erigenia bulbosa). After my eyes adjusted to one of then, I could see many of these small clusters of tiny flowers, barely poking above the forest floor their delicate leaves rarely visible.























I had entered my woods from the road, along the deer trail, and wandered downhill to where our lowland area begins - where the creek enters our property via and under-the-road culvert. I wandered through the widening lowland, where tributaries crawled and curled across the wet ground to eventually meet with the main creek. I then wandered up slopes to the upland woods.

In the first part of the lowland, I stopped to visit one of my old friends, an large double-trunk American Sycamore tree (Platanus occidentalis). The most notable feature of this particular Sycamore is the gaping mouth-like hole at the base, as if the old being just woke up and is yawning, stretching out its arms (two huge roots) across the forest floor.




Surely, something, or more than one something, must take refuge here now and then, or maybe even take up residence. I have never crawled around to see how deeply the holes go into the tree. But, then, I'm wary of disturbing a something.

Silas was very curious, too.

Sometime I will choose a spot with this tree in view and just watch and listen.

Sycamores are one of my favorite species of trees, and one reason is the very decorative bark. Parts of the trees have regular ol' scaly gray bark. But, this peels off in little layers, revealing an array of multi-toned splotches, like paints spilled here and there.



I often find curled pieces of smooth Sycamore bark on forest floors.

Toward the upper reaches of the tree, where all bark has fallen, the tree is left completely white. From a distance, trunks and branches of Sycamores show starkly among other trees, sometimes shimmering in the sun.

That is another of the many things I love about Sycamore trees. Here is another thing - their fluffy balls of seeds.




They start out firm and round, marked all around, as they plunk to the forest floor from the canopy. Eventually the seed ball loosens up, succumbing to time, the elements, and to birds and other wildlife that poke at it to extract seeds for food. Sometimes the seed ball breaks apart with the fluffy seeds forming interesting, swirly designs. Sometimes it appears to have exploded, the feathery seeds strewn about. Besides being spread by wildlife, the seeds are also scattered by gusts of wind or pushed along rivulets and streams by rushing water after heavy rains.

I noticed a dark spot in the crook of the Sycamore tree, between its two trunks. Reaching in, I found rich, black humus that any gardener would relish. For many years leaves, twigs, animal droppings and other organic items have collected here, and have been watered by rain and snow, and moisture dripping from leaves above. They have been broken down by a myriad of both visible and microscopic organisms, including bacteria and fungi, forming this rich compost.




There were already roots of some plant in there. Seeds blown in by the wind or dropped by birds could easily take root here. Likewise, spores of fungi and ferns could find an amenable spot to begin new life. In the crook of this Sycamore a little world has been created. I will check this spot throughout the year to see what may appear.

This Sycamore served as a jumping-off point for noticing other trees, and similar aspects of them, throughout the woods.

There was the contrast and variety in the bark of different tree species, with various colors, designs and textures.


A young Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis) - or is it a Sugarberry (C. laevigata)?


 A large White Oak tree (Quercus alba) in the upland area


This tree looks like its trousers were too long, slumping down at the feet



Besides the Sycamore seed balls, there were the "cones: of Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera) seed heads. Some still contained the long, paddle-like seeds clustered tightly around the center. Some were surrounded by seeds that had shattered off and away. 




And some were bare of seeds, with nothing left but the protective circle of old sepals and the lance-like structure in the center.




I envisioned the tree as it was last spring, its bright orange/green/yellow flowers held like cups-and-saucers on the branches, swirls of stamens and pistils inside the ring of colorful petals.

It is common to come across Black Walnut seeds (Juglans nigra) in our woods, often carried away from their "mother trees" by squirrels.




At this time of year, the green-turned-black husks are long gone, having rotted and fallen away, revealing the stony, furrowed nut shell. To get to the delicious, oily, rich nut inside, we need a hammer and some real effort. So, I am always amazed to find shells opened by squirrels, with their teeth left on the shell.

Just as I saw the Circle of Life happening in the crook of the Sycamore, I found it happening, in various ways, throughout the woods, associated with other trees. Usually, the work of animals was obvious.


A rotten log - animals have been helping the process when they scratch around in the soft wood, looking for little critters to eat


This leaning branch has had its bark newly scraped off - by deer?


An old vine that had grown up this tree has gradually disintegrated, and a small woodpecker has been drilling holes into the space


Woodpecker hole in an old segment of an American Hornbeam


Sometimes I found plant-to-plant (tree) associations.











Years ago, an American Cottonwood tree (Populus deltoids) in the lowland had fallen, the top lodging in the crook of a double-trunk Red Oak tree in the upland


One of my favorite sights - old Grape vines decorating this large tree in a rather Gothic manner







Leaves of the native Puttyroot Orchid (Aplectrum hyemale) - these plants were given to me by a friend and I planted them several years ago at the base of an upland tree - I am hoping for them to establish a good relationship with the tree's roots and then flourish and multiply


This tree on a slope has created a cozy microclimate for these Spring Beauty plants (Claytonia virginica), allowing them to come near to blooming well before others of their species


But, often it was a combination.


A standing tree had rotted, and a segment recently fell to the floor, breaking into large sections, scattering pieces of loose bark


One broken section is riddled with Woodpecker holes - all of the pieces are also riddled with holes made by smaller creatures whose actions have helped break down the wood


When the section of tree fell, it dropped across this young tree, bending some of the branches and holding them down (they will grow in a distorted fashion) and tearing one most of the way from the trunk - a large wound for such a small tree, which will either heal or invite forces (animal, disease, etc.) that will affect the young tree quite differently


Then, there were the mysteries, like the "mouth" in the Sycamore.


A secret door to another world?


The Ghost Owl in the Tree










A "ghost face" in this piece of wood









An old tree root I named "Krampus" for the monstrous Alpine folk figure that appears on St. Nicholas' Day


What made the interesting film on this old Sugar Maple leaf (Acer saccharum)? It is a solid film that can be peeled off the leaf.


These mysteries and other aspects of trees were so clear to see on this leafless day.

Before long, I knew, the forest floor would be so covered in wildflowers and ferns that I wouldn't know where to step. The coming warmer days would bring forth a greater variety of fascinating fungi. The canopy would be filled with dense greenery and intense birdsong.

From year-to-year, it is still not easy to imagine the woods in one season while standing amidst another.

One more mystery!

I see plenty of American Hornbeams (Carpinus caroliniana) in my woods, with their smooth, gray, muscle-like bark. They are also called Blue Beech, though they are not truly Beeches.

Why do I not find American Beech trees (Fagus grandifolia)? There are plenty of them in the area, including some huge, venerable old ones just a little ways up the road.

A couple of years ago, I thought I found one young American Beech tree near the woods' bottom, its lovely, tan-peachy autumn leaves clinging to its branches all winter.


Can you see it, in the center left?


Is it, really?  We'll keep watching.









Tuesday, March 19, 2019

3 Dune Challenge, Redux: Welcoming the New Year



3 Dune Challenge, Redux:
Welcoming the New Year
Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore (now National Park) and Indiana Dunes State Park
January 1, 2019




Could we do it again?

Richard and I had done the 3 Dune Challenge on May 29, 2014 (my, how time flies – that seems like just two years ago!) The Challenge was brand new at the time. The official opening was not until mid-June, but everything was set up for it, so we went.

To see our first 3 Dunes Challenge experience, check this out:

Moving up to late 2018:

We had been to some First Day Hikes before (McCormick's Creek State, Shakamak State Park) and felt we were due for another one. They are a great way to step into the new year on the right foot.

What about trying the 3 Dune Challenge again, which is the First Day Hike always offered at the Indiana Dunes? Why not? We could pair that with a visit to my father in the southern part of the same county (Lake). Reservations were made at our favorite Dunes area place to stay, and we were off to spend a quiet New Year's Eve before the Big Climb.

During the day, I like to step onto the balcony of the Springhouse Inn and take in the wooded, swampy scene behind and below the building. I watched squirrels chasing each other through the trees near me, then adjusted my vision toward the swamp area to the ESE, which drains into the nearby Little Calumet River. The strange flowering heads of Skunk Cabbage would be appearing soon, and later the area would be filled with the giant leaves of that plant.




We took off to the east, then north, toward Indiana Dunes State Park. The approach to the park always fills me with joy remembrance, and anticipation.




As we swerved around the curves after the park entrance, we saw some other cars and followed them uphill toward the meeting place (the Nature Center, on the other side of the large campground).




More cars. And more. And more. People directing us into the campground. Other cars driving around on the campground roads. Cars, cars, cars, filling every camp spot. We ended up parking on the far end of the campground and started walking to the Nature Center – with lots of other people.




There were a number of distinct differences between our 2014 hike and the one on New Year's Day, 2019. In 2014, it was just us and the very few people (and one little dog) we happened to encounter. This time, a major difference was …

#1: Way, way, way more people! All at the same time!

Of course, we knew that the First Day Hike meant walking with lots of other people (a special event, plus the fact that the Dunes is near a number of dense population areas), but … WOW! If someone had told me ahead of time how many people might be there, I would have thought this wouldn't be such a great way to experience the 3 Dune Challenge. But, it never seemed like so many, as usually we were all straggled out, with the exception of the starting point and the picture-taking part. Yes, there would be a whole group photo. You'll see.

#2: There was a leader (as opposed to Richard and I just “leading” ourselves last time).

And this young park Naturalist (Marie Laudeman – she must be recognized for this feat!) somehow spoke to the whole group with no microphone or megaphone, and led us the whole way.



#3: This hike went in the prescribed direction for the 1.5 mile route, the dune ascensions in the prescribed order.

In 2014, Richard and I did the opposite – sort of. From the Nature Center, we had hiked to Mt. Holden first, then Mt. Tom, then Mt. Jackson. This meant we may have taken a longer hike because we did a lot of back-tracking on the trails. But, we only did one side of Mt. Tom, so maybe it all comes out in the wash. It also meant that we experienced each dune differently than in 2019, approaching the opposite sides of each.

On January 1, 2019 we, in the Great Mass of People, walked a campground road westward to the sandy woodland beginning of Trail 4, then gradually ascended the trail northwestward toward the base of Mt. Tom. After Mt. Tom we would take Trail 8 east and north to Mt. Holden, continue on Trail 8 to Mt. Jackson, then Trail 8 (or, Trail 7 for some of us) through woodland back to the start.

To see a map of the 3 Dune Challenge (and some information), go to:

#4: There were lots of dogs on this hike!


This little guy's name is Milo

All sorts of sizes, shapes, colors; long-haired and short-haired – and all well behaved (though some felt the need to be assertive when encountering others). I loved it – they made the hike even more fun.


Up Trail 4


Uh, oh. I was already running really short of breath before even getting to a dune, which did not happen during our 2014 hike (more on that later). But – I got there! That first part of the trail was a “training” for my poorly adjusted muscles and lungs.

And then, the first dune, and the tallest of the lot – Mt. Tom. It has steps on both sides, so, not so bad.






Up we went. I enjoyed the changing views as we went higher, and our first peek at Lake Michigan.








What is that mansion in the distance??




Up and up and up. The leader and the first batch of folks had gotten to the top platform. We all kept scooting up more and more, squeezing in as much as we could because, yes, there would be a group photo.


Keep moving up!

Bringing up the rear


More dogs!


Still bringing up the rear




Can you guess how many people were there?
And, someone at the top really did get us all in one photo. It was astounding, to me, how they organized such a large group.

We were at the top of Mt. Tom!





The incredibly long string of hikers descended the steps on the other side (which Richard and I had ascended and descended in 2014).




#5: Descending steps was not the same for me as it was in 2014.

Since then, there had been a broken ankle that hadn't healed perfectly, and various mysterious spots of pain, discomfort and stiffness that had appeared, especially in my knees. So much can change in 4 ½ years. I realized that some amount of fear (of going down steps, and of falling) had developed from these, too. I held onto the railing and worked myself down carefully. Many more nimble (but understanding) people passed me by. This was a much different experience than I'd had anytime previous in my life, except for the two times I was on crutches.
Oh, how would I do on the other dunes?!


Scene along the trail between Mt. Tom and Mt. Holden




The toughest part of the 3 Dune Challenge, for anyone, is the ascent of Mt. Holden's steep east side, which is all sand. At the base, someone was showing us another choice, to turn right (south) on Trail 7, back to the Nature Center, via an easy woodland route.
I saw a few people go that way. The symbolism of it all was very deep for me. I was at a significant crossroads. At that point, I could have easily turned that way because …

#6: I was not in the same shape I was in 2014 – alas! This was becoming crystal clear to me.

The woman's arm was gesturing toward the easy route. Her voice echoed in my head, “You can go this way! This way! This way! Thissss waaayy!” A wide swath of sand rose before me, into the sky. A relaxed, straight trail tapered off to my right, through the trees.

I went forward and up.
No one but I can truly understand what it meant for me, in that moment, to move forward and up. It was a momentous decision. It was very difficult. Kind people encouraged me along the way – keep going, don't look down, look up. One man offered his hand to help me over a huge exposed tree root. I stopped a number of times, gasping for breath, as many others scrambled on up – two steps forward = one step back. Don't look back – keep looking up. I saw Richard ahead, almost to the top, and realized I was at least halfway there. Halfway! The first half is the worst, because at any stretch of it you feel you could still turn back. So, I kept going.

And, just like that, I was at the top!!




It was glorious to be there. There were the fantastic views, of course. But, mainly it was the realization that I had done this, after all of my doubts and trepidation.










Can it get any better than this?

Hikers almost to the top of Mt. Holden


After I caught my breath, I was aware that my little respiratory wheeziness (one of my concerns that day) was … gone. I felt fine. In fact, I felt better than I had in a long time. I felt stronger, clearer, healthier. Maybe part of that was taking in the fresh lake air at the top – so much better for my lungs than the stuffy Wabash River Lowlands air that I normally deal with.

#7: There were lots of family groups, lots of children.



This definitely made the hike even more enjoyable.

Then, down the other side of Mt. Holden. Oh, how rewarding to go down this sandy swath!










One more dune! But, Mt. Jackson would seem so easy after this. In fact, I was suddenly surprised to be at the top of it. 


Scene between Mt. Holden and Mt. Jackson








People and dogs take a break before the last descent

This was ironic. In 2014, we had ascended Mt. Jackson on the other side, and it had been the most difficult part of our 3 Dune Challenge that year, the same as the ascent of Mt. Holden this year (though, I was in better shape then).

#8: A very different season, of course.




January 1 is bound to be significantly different from May 29. It was interesting, though, to see the same views during winter, when one can see farther through the trees and view the undulations of landscape in a different light.



#9: Because of the season, the presence of plant life was quite different.

In late May of 2014 there were many different species of plants in bloom or bud (some are pictured in my blog post of that hike). On January 1, here's what I saw:


Sharp-Lobed Hepatica

Ebony Spleenwort fern


Don't know, but I love the fuzzy seeds!


The 3 Dune Challenge/First Day Hike was, essentially, about done. Down we all went on the wide, sandy south side of Mt. Jackson, happy as larks to have completed the challenge. It was a joyous reward to go down that dune.








The rest of the way was simply sandy woodland trails toward the starting point. I think were were supposed to have taken Trail 8, which ends up at the Nature Center, but some of us turned onto Trail 7, ending at the campground road downhill from the Nature Center. No matter – we got back.




Back to the campground road


Once again – we did it!!




How many people were on this First Day Hike?
The next morning the local paper (The Times of Northwest Indiana) had a story about it, which reported about 450 hikers!
Oh, my!

We decided not to wait in line for the celebratory hot chocolate and doughnuts with almost 450 people. Instead, we headed to nearby Chesterton, Indiana, for brunch at Peggy Sue's Diner, where coffee cups are filled right away (without asking) and my BLT came on white toast (without asking).
Ah, diners!










Then we were on the highway through the winter landscape – on to see Dad. I was very happy that I could report to him that I did complete the Challenge. That thought was one of those that made me go upward at the base of Mt. Holden instead of turning right.




So much happened to me on that hike. I kept feeling better, for one thing.
But, it wasn't just the physical aspect of having been able to do it all, to have physically challenged my body.
I realized the need to challenge myself in many ways, to assume that I will be able to do it, whatever it is, to go beyond what I think by abilities are at the time, because they are likely more than I think they are.
Because, if you keep at it, then, suddenly … there you are.
I learned to get past the echoing voice that keeps offering me the easy way, that plays on my doubts. Turn my head away. Go UP.
And then you get to do the fun, easy part.
Things will get better.

I envy people who live in areas with easy access to natural challenges – ones who have mountains to climb, rapids to work, huge areas to traverse, beaches to walk, waves to swim, sand dunes to ascend. What great shape I'd be in if I had easier access to such places! I think about what I have where I live. Ouabache Trails Park offers some good, hilly hiking, and so does Hillcrest Park. In town there are some ancient Indian mounds (only one that I'm willing to go to alone) – they are the closest things we have to a steep ascent akin to a dune, but they are not sandy. Maybe I could stop at that one mound now and then.

Otherwise this challenge, mentally, extends to other aspects of Life, not just the physical. I knew I would never approach those the same way again.





If you google “3 Dune Challenge”, you will find a number of ways to read about other people's experiences with it, and their photos, and even some videos. Give it a try! Better yet, go to the Indiana Dunes and do the Challenge. The views are a magnificent reward, any time of year!

Here is a gallery of photos posted by The Times of Northwest Indiana. Richard and I are not in any of them – as far as I can tell – but, there were SO MANY PEOPLE!! Enjoy!