Ghosts
October 31, 2019
Trail 2, McCormick's Creek State Park,
Indiana
It was not the kind of day most people
would choose for a walk in the woods. It was the kind of wet cold
that seeps into the marrow of your bones, like cold rivulets
traveling through cracks in the rock, seeping into the center.
But, we were not deterred. As the
morning moved on, wind was added to the mix of cold and rain, and
then snow.
But, why not? Walking would keep us
warm. And, it was Halloween. This was Halloween weather and we were
going to dive into the experience.
Would there be ghosts, too?
We chose Trail 2 because we had never
walked it, and due to its description on the park map (moderate, only
about a mile, and through McCormick's Cove Nature Preserve). There
was also something else along the trail I wanted to see, in relation
to a more complex writing I am working on. But, that's another story.
Stay tuned – keep watching this blog.
Whole map of
McCormick's Creek State Park
Section of trail map showing
area containing Trail 2 and Canyon Inn
Now for our ghostly walk – finding
the past, or the past finding us. And, other mysteries.
We had stayed at Canyon Inn, in the
park the previous night. It was built on the foundation of an old
sanitarium (or, a get-away place for weary rich folks, back then,
before this became a state park). The sanitarium (and adjacent land)
was the start of preserving acreage in this area purely for its
beauty and restorative value, for serenity and revitalization. Of
course, the park (established as the first Indiana state park in
1916) is still all of that, and we feel happy staying at the Inn, and
enjoying this wonderful park.
But, the background of the park is
another story.
Trail 2 begins near the old CCC
(Civilian Conservation Corps) Recreation Hall, built in the 1930's.
The CCC men built a number of
structures in the park (but, that's another story).
The old Recreation Hall brings back
memories (though, I'm not old enough for my memories to extend back
to the 1930's). I peered into the windows, trying to make out details
of the interior through finely-meshed screens.
What I was looking for was the ghosts
of life in the old Nature Center, which is what this building was
until the early 1970's, when a new Nature Center was built elsewhere
in the park. I tried to see the old exhibits around the perimeter,
and some in the center, as they were in the late 1960's. They were
not like the fancy new ones, but we had fun and learned through them.
I see myself gingerly putting my hand through a hole in a box to
guess what was inside. I see my little brother Joe holding a bird's
nest he found, and the wonderful summer intern, JoAnn, bending down
to him, even remembering his name. I try to see both my parents and
my siblings in a circle with other park campers in an open end of the
room, singing songs, laughing, as JoAnn and Chief Naturalist Lucille
Pitt led an activity.
The door on this side was the entrance to the Nature Center years ago
Those were memorable, influential times
for me, a budding Naturalist, in that building.
But, that's another story.
On to the trail.
One thing we knew about it – we would
be hiking downhill for awhile, into the lowland near McCormick's
Creek, then, of course, the way back would be all uphill. Everything
else would be a surprise (other than what I was looking for).
The first part revealed a forest floor
of autumn leaves in a variety of colors and shapes, contrasting with
the broad heart shapes and bright green of Wild Ginger leaves.
Down we went, through the wet autumn
forest.
A sinkhole in the distance - this common feature of karst topography is seen throughout McCormick's Creek State Park - but, that's another story
Along the whole trail, we came upon
trees darkened by the rain, some with mysterious holes, or with
gnarly roots like wicked witch fingers.
Some trees and logs were covered by
beautiful mosses and lichens, enlivened and brightened by the wet
day.
Moss gradually covering Sycamore trunks in the lowland
Blue-green lichen growing among patches of moss
Fungi, moss, and lichen - common companions on an old log
Fungi appeared in ghostly white, or
weird forms, or in fairy-like places.
And, there were ghostly ferns!!
These are either Bracken or
Lady Ferns. I am leaning toward the former, but wish I had looked
more closely. To find out why some ferns turn white as winter
approaches, see:
www.savetheredwoods.org/blog/wonders/winter-white-ferns
And, plants in seed that had become
ghosts of what they once were.
As we walked the trail down, down,
down, we started to see random blocks of stone – out of place,
scattered. Irregular shapes re-carved by forces over time, moss
smoothing the edges and softening their hardness. Sometimes the
stones peeked from beneath a cover of fallen leaves.
As we walked along, the stones became
more numerous, and larger.
A pile of moss-covered stones surrounded by seedling trees
And, they were piled higher.
Richard going down a side trail near a large pile of stones
Piles of moss- and lichen-covered
stones revealed secret dens or passages.
Something larger was revealed,
gradually coming into our view.
What was this, which looked like
ancient ruins melting into the forest?
It looked like stair-steps to a lost
temple, and maybe a ceremonial altar above a pool.
It was, in a sense. This was the Old Statehouse Quarry, the place I wanted to find, where once people toiled hard
every day, all day, to carve and extract great blocks from the Salem
Limestone bedrock.
Instead of piling stones to build a
temple or altar, or anything, the blocks would be pried from the
bedrock, shaped, and hauled far away to build other structures.
Some of the stone was used in the
building of the old Statehouse in Indianapolis. It was loaded and
transported west to the White River, then carried across the river to
a railroad on the other side, where it was loaded onto trains and
carried north.
Earlier than that, some stones were
transported across McCormick's Creek and then eastward across the
land, to an area above the canyon, to build the foundation of a log
cabin (and cellar) and a springhouse for Jesse Peden and his family.
Some were transported, in 1857, to the
same location to build the under-story and pillars of the impressive
barn of Jesse's son, Thomas.
But, that's another story.
What we came upon was the remains of
the quarry, an unintended memorial to the work of many men (and
horses), to blood, sweat, and tears, to local topography and
industry, to the enabling of farm life and the walls of government.
We were walking on history. I tried to imagine the ghosts of the men toiling at this site - marking, cutting, shaping, lifting ...
There were mysteries here:
- How many men worked each day, for how many hours?
- How much stone was quarried over the lifetime of the use of this place?
- How much of a load could one horse pull? How many horses pulled a load?
- How long did it take to pull a load of blocks all the way to the White River, or to the land above and beyond the canyon and great waterfall?
The "handwriting" of hard work, long ago
But, that's another story.
And, what would we find deep in the
crevices of the stone, if we were small enough to explore them?
We can see the original level of the land behind the old quarry
The quarry had been gouged out of the
landscape, changing it forever. But, Nature had been reclaiming her
domain and taking advantage of the created situations in interesting
ways.
Trees growing among the quarry rocks
Walking Ferns clinging to the rock along ridges
Sharp-Lobed Hepatica, which will bloom in early spring
The young forest growing on top of the Old Quarry
The edge of the Old Quarry above McCormick's Creek, and part of Trail 10
The edge of the old quarry rises above
McCormick's Creek, which pours over the big waterfall far to the east
and then tumbles into the White River to the west. Normally one can
hike the rugged, stony creek (Trail 10), but not on this day, as
torrents of water rushed by and spilled over small rapids.
McCormick's Creek, upstream
Across McCormick's Creek from the Old Quarry, toward Trail 7
McCormick's Creek, downstream
(Why is it called McCormick's Creek? That's another story)
Rushing down toward the White River
Over time, water collected in the
excavated bowl of the old quarry, forming a pond. I wondered what
kinds of life it supports throughout the year, and thought I would
return sometime during spring and summer to investigate and observe.
At the far end there was a population
of water plants.
I think they are Lizard Tail, but it
would be better to see them closer.
We lingered a good while around the Old
Quarry, taking it all in. But, we also needed to be on our way, on
the rest of Trail 2.
What was that noise behind us, as we were leaving the Old Quarry?
For awhile, we still found piles of
limestone blocks and segments of quarry work away from the main
quarry site …
… including another pond area created
by long ago excavation …
… and a dinosaur leaning forward to
drink from the pond …
… which mysteriously disappeared as
we moved past.
We were curious about the large lowland
area to our right, between the trail and McCormick's Creek. Was it a
normal floodplain?
Many trees (mostly Sycamores) had
multiple trunks.
Richard said he thought the area had
been logged. The trees all seemed fairly young, too. We saw so many
quarry remnants to the left of the trail that we wondered if this
whole area had been scooped out long ago, and that it actually had
been, before then, as high and steep as the land to the back of the
main quarry site.
To the left
Trail 2 meets up with McCormick's Creek again, just before turning sharply south
The power of water
After making the sharp turn, we were
headed southward and uphill for the second half of the trail.
Going uphill just after the turn
Looking back
Last solid bedrock exposure - and goodbye to quarry remnants
Up and up
Spicebush berries
A woodpecker has been working hard
We arrived at the end of Trail 2,
emerging into the Family Cabin area.
Something to see again during the growing season
We learned that these cabins were also
built by the CCC.
With that, we had come full circle with
the ghosts of the past.
We then walked down the road (east,
then southeast, then northeast) toward Canyon Inn ...
… and to a nice, warm resting place
by the lodge fireplace, and some hot beverages.
End of this story.
Sometime, this Terri of the Trails blog
will hold more stories from this park, hinted at along Trail 2, all
connected in some way.
We'll be visiting more ghosts.
A skeletonized Elm leaf
Who was here before us??
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